Yes, you can get a credit card with a 600 credit score, but your options are limited to cards designed for people rebuilding credit.

A 600 credit score falls into the "fair" range for most scoring models. Most mainstream credit cards require a score of 670 or higher, so you will not be approved for those. However, secured credit cards and some unsecured cards marketed to people with fair credit will consider your application. The trade-off is higher interest rates, annual fees, and lower credit limits than you would get with a higher score.

The card you are approved for depends on the specific lender, your income, your debt-to-income ratio, and whether you have any recent negative marks (late payments, collections, charge-offs). A 600 score alone does not disqualify you — but it does narrow the field significantly.

Key Takeaways

  • Secured credit cards are the most reliable option at a 600 score; you deposit cash as collateral, and the card issuer holds it while you use the card.
  • Some unsecured cards marketed to fair-credit borrowers will approve you at 600, but they typically charge annual fees of $39 to $95 and APRs of 24% to 36%.
  • Your approval odds improve if you have a steady income, low existing debt, and no recent late payments or collections.
  • Building credit with a secured card for 6 to 12 months can raise your score enough to move to a mainstream card with better terms.

Secured credit cards: the most accessible route at 600

A secured credit card requires you to deposit money into a savings account held by the card issuer. That deposit becomes your credit limit — if you deposit $500, you get a $500 limit. The card issuer takes almost no risk, so approval is nearly automatic regardless of your score, as long as you have the cash to deposit.

The deposit stays in the account untouched. You use the card like any other card, pay your bill each month, and the issuer reports your payment history to the credit bureaus. After 6 to 24 months of on-time payments (depending on the issuer), you can request to convert the card to an unsecured card, and the deposit is returned to you.

Common secured card issuers include Capital One Secured Mastercard, Discover Secured Card, and U.S. Bank Secured Visa. Deposits typically range from $200 to $2,500. Annual fees vary from $0 to $95. APRs are usually 18% to 24%, which is high but lower than many unsecured fair-credit cards.

Unsecured cards for fair credit: higher fees, higher rates

Some card issuers offer unsecured cards to people with scores in the 600 to 669 range. These cards do not require a deposit, but they come with costs. Annual fees typically run $39 to $95. APRs range from 24% to 36%. Credit limits are usually $300 to $500.

Examples include the Capital One Quicksilver Secured Card (which is actually secured, despite the name), the OpenSky Secured Visa, and various store cards like those from Amazon or Target. Some regional banks and credit unions also offer unsecured cards to fair-credit borrowers, so it is worth checking with any institution where you have an existing account.

The advantage over a secured card is that you keep your cash — you do not need to deposit collateral. The disadvantage is the annual fee and the higher APR, which means interest charges accumulate faster if you carry a balance.

What lenders look at beyond your score

Your 600 score is one data point. Lenders also review your income, employment history, existing debt, and recent payment history. If you have a steady job, low credit card balances, and no late payments in the past 12 months, you have a better chance of approval than someone with the same score but recent collections or charge-offs.

Recent hard inquiries also matter. If you have applied for multiple cards in the past few months, each application leaves a small mark on your credit report. Lenders see this as a sign you are desperate for credit, which raises their risk assessment. Space out applications by at least a few weeks.

If you have a co-signer with good credit, some issuers will approve you for an unsecured card. However, most mainstream card issuers do not accept co-signers, so this option is limited to smaller lenders or credit unions.

How to choose between secured and unsecured

If you have at least $200 to $500 in savings, a secured card is usually the better choice. You avoid the annual fee, get a lower APR, and the approval is nearly certain. The deposit is not lost — it is held safely and returned once you convert to an unsecured card.

Choose an unsecured fair-credit card only if you do not have cash to deposit or if you find one with no annual fee (rare, but they exist). Even then, compare the APR carefully. A 36% APR on a $500 limit costs you $180 per year in interest if you carry the full balance — more than most annual fees.

Whichever card you choose, use it for small purchases you would make anyway, pay the full balance each month, and keep your utilization below 30% of your limit. This builds your score fastest and costs you the least in interest.

Building your score after you get the card

Your goal is to raise your score from 600 to 670 or higher within 6 to 12 months. This opens access to mainstream cards with lower rates and no annual fees. The fastest way is consistent on-time payments — payment history is 35% of your score.

Keep your credit utilization low. If your limit is $500, try not to charge more than $150 per month. Pay it off in full before the due date. Do not close the card once you convert it to unsecured; the older account history helps your score.

Check your credit report for errors at annualcreditreport.com (the official free source). Dispute any inaccurate late payments or accounts that are not yours. Errors can drag down your score unfairly, and removing them can raise it by 20 to 50 points.

Frequently Asked Questions

Will applying for a card hurt my credit score?

Yes, each application triggers a hard inquiry, which lowers your score by a few points temporarily. The impact fades after a few months. However, multiple applications in a short time signal risk to lenders, so space them out by at least two to three weeks.

What if I get denied?

Ask the issuer why. If it is your score, wait a few months, make on-time payments on existing accounts, and try again. If it is recent negative marks (collections, charge-offs), those take longer to fade. A secured card is almost always an option because approval does not depend on your score.

Can I use a secured card to build credit faster?

Not faster than an unsecured card — both report the same way to credit bureaus. The advantage of secured is that approval is certain and the APR is usually lower. Use whichever you can get, pay on time, and keep your balance low.

Do I have to carry a balance to build credit?

No. Paying in full each month is actually better for your score. Carrying a balance costs you interest and does not build credit any faster than paying it off. The credit bureaus care that you use the card and pay it on time, not that you pay interest.

How long until I can convert a secured card to unsecured?

Most issuers allow conversion after 6 to 12 months of on-time payments. Some require 18 to 24 months. Check the card's terms before you apply. Once you convert, your deposit is returned to your bank account within a few business days.